The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a spray-painted station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous road noise. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.

This is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of the city town centre.

"I've noticed people concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who make vintage from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and community plots across the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Across the Globe

To date, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens assist cities stay greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Throughout the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I love the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than 150 vines perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."

"When I tread the grapes, the various wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

William Powell
William Powell

A seasoned gaming enthusiast with over a decade of experience in reviewing online casinos and sharing winning strategies.