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Athens

Craggy coves and sandy bays make up the resplendent mix that is the Athens Riviera. Thus at the end of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a rather agreeable question: where to head to soothe bones still longing for a last splash of summer sun. For this city offers something that other European cities cannot: a coastline of over 60 kilometers dotted with beaches many a Greek island would covet.

Out of season, the shores of Attica still have a magnetic allure, as I discovered when swimming into a dusk across the bay of Vouliagmeni. For those seeking rejuvenation in marine blue waters primed to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the coastline's public or private beaches does not let you down.

With ocean spray still clinging to my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a tavern whose regional cuisine is as good as the breathtaking panorama of the bay it sits on. In a tribute to bygone eras, the appetizers is served on large wooden trays.

Athens is as celebrated for its hills as its coastline: rising terrain within view of the Acropolis that make it a treasure trove for amblers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to escape a city that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these stone formations – bearers of fabulous names such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Hill of the Muses – are a must-see.

In my opinion, this historic city is the continent's most soulful and sublime.

If you reach the top of Lycabettus Hill, the city’s highest point, either on foot or on the cable railway, the prize is a stunning view of the whole Argo-Saronic Gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to be in the center, the ancient Plaka district remains the best base. The traditional a classic hotel hotel has rooms facing the northern face of the Acropolis from about €140 bed and breakfast. In the same area, a popular restaurant is a preferred restaurant with residents and serves the most succulent lamb chops. With vistas of the ancient monument, Athens’ elevated dining spots are wonderfully atmospheric and ideal for mild fall nights – for a real treat head to a top restaurant or the Michelin‑starred Macris.

Palermo

Think Neapolitan pizza is the ultimate in pizza? Think again. In Palermo they prefer sfincione, a soft, well-risen rectangle of bread topped with intense, onion-heavy tomato sauce and sprinkled with caciocavallo cheese and oregano. Savory, filling and comforting, it’s sold in shops, kiosks and stalls throughout the town (Via Maqueda in the old town usually has multiple sellers).

We sample it at a kiosk on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re lodging. Panineria Chiluzzo often has big lines, but they progress fast as young staff serve slices of the pizza, as well as rice balls and chickpea fritters. There are a couple of seats under the trees outside, but we dine as we walk into the city along narrow a street. This is a nice walk in autumn but wouldn’t always be in summer. As hot spells swept Europe this year, temperatures in Sicily topped 40C in the shadow. At the end of July one hot spot hit a record 158F at the surface.

We stroll the city and enjoy how its rich past is etched in its architecture.

Now, as the climate rise to 75F by the afternoon, we can explore the metropolis and appreciate how its long history is visible in its streets. Passing historic buildings, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s oldest coffee roastery, we admire the Arab-Norman domes of the 12th-century San Cataldo Church; Piazza Pretoria, with its Renaissance fountain, placed under Spanish rule; and the grand church, constructed on the location of a ancient Islamic temple.

On the way back we detour to Vucciria market, the roots of which also stretch back over 1,000 years. Some decry its commercialization, but it is still lively and highly dramatic. Feeling brave, we pause for a classic pani câ meusa, which is surprisingly OK, with its slightly sweet “meat” balanced by grated cheese. The stallholder is particularly proud of his grilled goat’s intestines but, unfortunately, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a delight for me.

We’re happy to head back to quieter the old quarter, the historic district to the east, which was bombed in the second world war and declined for years before being revitalized this era. Maison Butera (sea-view rooms from $175 B&B) is a four-room B&B with many attractions nearby. Up the street is a historic palace, a baroque grand building restored and reopened in 2021 to house the Valsecchi art collection, which features works by contemporary artists and pop art icons.

Next day we walk a short distance to Palermo’s gardens, with its record-breaking ancient tree. Songbirds are chirping loudly as the light shines. Soon we’ll be in the UK, the clocks will go back and the cold season will begin. We enjoy a final days in the sunshine.

The Austrian Capital

While lamenting the close of the warm season and spending time at beach bars and bathing spots on the branches of the Danube, I’m now chasing a different color. Vienna is a city of parks and well-kept lawns, meadow sweeps and woodland belts, which swap their emerald halo for a golden and ochre glow the Austrians call Goldener Herbst.

I depart from the impressive buildings and old streets of the downtown. South-west of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park splays from the magnificent royal palace, where the gilt isn’t limited for the interior, and makes its way into corridors of tall bronzed hedgerows and curved walkways that lead to the butter-yellow palace.

To the east, in the city’s a large park, I walk beneath the shady trees of the Hauptallee, an avenue that’s almost three miles long and centuries-old. On the edge of the park, the retro-styled a trendy hotel (rooms from $85 B&B) is a perfectly placed getaway.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a dedicated effort to encouraging parks and fostering local culture), the fall brings a feast of seasonal ingredients on menus. Pumpkin cream soup is the classic dish – best eaten in a wood-panelled pub such as the art-splashed a popular spot – and followed with a Wiener Schnitzel.

The city is a city of green areas and landscapes that swap their green cover for a golden and ochre glow.

Unbeknown to many, Vienna is the only continental city to produce wine within its city limits, with 700 hectares of grape fields. There are fourteen designated city hiking trails, known as Stadtwanderwege. Route one leads you through the wine country of a district. Relax in a hillside wine tavern such as Wieninger am Nussberg, drinking a citrussy grüner veltliner with a Brettljause (an assortment of sliced meats and dairy), while enjoying the sublime city vista.

The days are getting shorter, but now is the perfect time to stroll among the city's grand buildings, galleries and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|